展览回顾|第二单元：质造交响<交织未来——2025巴黎时尚艺术双年展>
Exhibition Review | UnitTwo:The Symphony of MaterialsInterweaving The Future —— 2025 Paris Fashion Art Biennale第二单元Unit
Exhibition Review | Unit Two:The Symphony of Materials
Interweaving The Future —— 2025 Paris Fashion Art Biennale
第二单元
Unit Two
【质造回响】
The Symphony of Materials
时尚规章在此打破，设计师以多元材料为媒，奏响跨界创作的狂想曲。非纺织材料与丝线编织出流动的装置艺术，拼接成雕塑感十足的裙装结构……这些作品拒绝单一标签，重构服装廓形，赋予材质新生，在 “服装” 与 “艺术品” 的模糊地带自由游走，共同诠释着新质造语言的创作哲学，展现时装艺术作为综合艺术的无限可能。
Fashion conventions are broken here, as designers use diverse materials as a medium to compose a fantastical symphony of cross-disciplinary creation. Non-textile materials and silk threads are woven into installation art, pieced together into a sculptural skirt structure ... These works reject single labels, reconstructing garment silhouettes and redefining materials, freely navigating the boundaries between “clothing” and “artwork.” Together, they interpret the creative philosophy of new material language, showcasing the infinite possibilities of fashion art as a comprehensive art form.
艺术家：黄斯赟
Artist：Huang Siyun
作品名称：《虚实丹青》
Title of work：Danqing: Between Emptiness and Substance
作品材质：综合材料
Material(s)：Composite materials
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
从中国丹青画卷到当代丹青不渝的坚韧品性，《虚实丹青》以“人工与天成”为主题，探讨本真与雕琢的互化共生。探索了介于“自然之物”与“人工造物”之间的中间态美学，上演跨时空对话。“君子爱竹”—— 设计师黄斯赟对中国诗画中的重要文化符号“竹”的形态、色彩、材质与空间组织进行了精心编排与创新再造：采用3D打印柔性触觉材料应用于竹子的图形纹样上，通过3D算法在织物上的增材打印，借助模型的不同切面，辅以光线折射，从而实现将沉寂的黑色在不同角度下呈现“五彩斑斓的黑”，在视觉上营造丰富色彩与闪烁灵动的美感。“虚”与“实”的交错呈现，既突破了传统中对中国水墨黑白色的固有印象，又在当代数字化与工艺性交融的科技语境下，利用动态光影与新兴材料，赋予竹意象以新的表达，从而展现传统与未来链接的生命力。
takes “the synergy of the artificial and the natural” as its theme, exploring a liminal aesthetics between “nature” and “artifice,” where authenticity and refinement coexist in dialogue across time. Inspired by the cultural symbol of bamboo in Chinese poetry and painting, Huang Siyun reinterprets its form, color, materiality, and spatial rhythm through innovative design.
3D printing are applied to bamboo-inspired patterns, with additive printing algorithms layered onto fabric. Through shifting model sections and the refraction of light, the stillness of black transforms into a “polychromatic black,” unveils dazzling colors and luster from different angles. The interplay of the “virtual” and the “real” not only challenges the monochrome conventions of traditional ink painting but also, within a technological context of digitalization and craft, imbues the bamboo motif with renewed life—bridging tradition and future, nature and technology.
艺术家：姬静
Artist：Ji Jing
作品名称：《静寂》
Title of work：In Silence
作品材质：棉、真丝、羊毛、涤纶
Material(s)：Cotton ，Silk，Wool，Polyester
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
“静寂”并非空洞的缺席，而是一种充盈的沉默，是喧嚣中沉淀的力量。时装作品以建筑般简约的轮廓、克制的力量感色彩与富有质感的材质，探寻“安静”这一状态所蕴含的深邃哲思与澎湃能量。通过解构的设计手法、不对称的剪裁与层叠的结构，隐喻思绪的流动与内心的沉淀。面料的选择上，轻盈、柔软的丝绸与挺括的羊毛相互交织，在触觉与视觉上传递出宁静的张力。“静寂”于此不仅是一种视觉语言，亦是最有力的抵抗姿态。它在信息爆炸、节奏飞驰的当下，我们应锚定内心，感受那份源自深处的、沉静的磅礴力量。
"Silence" is not an empty absence, but a rich stillness, a power that settles amidst the noise. The fashion pieces explore the profound philosophy and surging energy contained within the state of "quiet" through architectural simplicity in silhouette, restrained yet powerful colors, and textured materials. Through deconstructed design techniques, asymmetric cuts, and layered structures, it metaphorically represents the flow of thoughts and the settling of the inner self. In terms of fabric choice, the interplay of lightweight, soft silk and crisp wool conveys a tranquil tension both tactilely and visually. Here, "silence" is not only a visual language but also the most powerful stance of resistance. In this age of information explosion and rapid pace, we should anchor ourselves within, feeling that deep, serene, and immense power.
艺术家：李艾虹
Artist：Li Aihong
作品名称：《0～1&1～0》
Title of work：0～1&1～0
作品材质：棉布
Material(s)：Cotton
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
作品《0～1&1～0》叙述无限循环中的数字幻化时代,为未来时尚定义提供了生动的隐喻,这种动态悖论构建了未来时尚的本质矛盾——科技赋予人类主体性的博弈场域.《0～1&1～0》并非给出答案,究竟是在数字幻化中拓展了“衣”的维度,还是坠入了更精密的数字标签,这场无限循环的时尚实验,最终将确认权交给了在镜室里审视的另一个自己..面对创新与传统,寻找一条融合共存的道路是艺术家探索当代时尚语言的一个界面,也使中国时尚语言的传播更有价值.
The work "0-1&1-0" narrates the era of digital transformation in infinite cycles, providing vivid metaphors for the definition of future fashion. This dynamic paradox constructs the essential contradiction of future fashion - the game field in which technology endows human subjectivity 0-1&1-0 "does not provide an answer. Whether it expands the dimension of" clothing "in digital transformation or falls into more precise digital labels, this endless fashion experiment ultimately hands over the confirmation power to another self examining in the mirror room Facing innovation and tradition, finding a path of integration and coexistence is an interface for artists to explore contemporary fashion language, and it also makes the dissemination of Chinese fashion language more valuable.
艺术家：路雅乔
Artist：Lu Yaqiao
作品名称：《祭红回响》
Title of work：Crimson Reverberation
作品材质：天丝、皮革
Material(s)：Tencel、Leather
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
本作品的廓形灵感源自清代康熙时期的祭红釉观音瓶——挺拔而柔婉的瓶身线条、浑厚而光润的釉色，凝聚着中国古典器物的美学精髓。服装在此化作承载文化的容器，与古代器物展开一次跨越时空的对话。以光泽的材质，重现瓷器表面的视觉触感；以浑厚的绛红，显露瓷器恒古不变的静穆；以婀娜的剪影，再现瓷器至简的典雅神韵。重拾文化根脉，构建文化新生，陶瓷艺术与时尚艺术的碰撞，让静态器物的神逸延绵至当代艺术场域，让中国深沉的文化表达超越博物馆的束之高阁，呈现出多元、时尚、向未来的鲜活姿态。
The silhouette of this work is inspired by the Jihong Glazed Guanyin Vase from the Kangxi period of the Qing dynasty — its upright yet graceful lines and its rich, lustrous glaze embody the aesthetic essence of classical Chinese artifacts. Here, the garment becomes a vessel for culture, engaging in a cross-temporal dialogue with ancient objects. Through lustrous materials, it recreates the visual texture of porcelain; through a deep crimson tone, it reveals the timeless serenity of the ceramic form; and through a graceful silhouette, it reinterprets the vessel’s refined elegance in its purest form. By reconnecting with cultural roots and fostering new cultural vitality, the encounter between ceramic art and fashion extends the spirit of static artifacts into the realm of contemporary art, allowing the profound expression of Chinese culture to transcend the confines of museum display and emerge in diverse, fashion-forward, and future-oriented forms.
艺术家：吕佳怡
Artist：Lyu Jiayi
作品名称：《鳞溯云渊》
Title of work：Scales Tracing the Cloudy Abyss
作品材质：金刚纱、网纱
Material(s)：metal mesh、mesh fabric
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
作品以东方美学为底色，将中式意象与艺术表达相融。服装采用层叠垂坠的立体剪裁，如传统吉祥图腾般，用褶皱构建流动韵律，似鲤鱼游弋时的水波纹路。面料晕染的渐变色彩，借鉴中式水墨意境，既保留东方文化的含蓄韵味，又借现代造型语言，诠释传统符号的新生命力。
The works are rooted in Oriental aesthetics, integrating Chinese imagery with artistic expression. The garments adopt layered and draped three-dimensional tailoring, which, like traditional auspicious totems, creates a flowing rhythm through folds—resembling the ripples formed when a carp swims. The gradient colors dyed on the fabric draw inspiration from the artistic conception of Chinese ink painting, retaining the subtle charm of Oriental culture while interpreting the new vitality of traditional symbols through modern styling language.
艺术家：乔安娜·布雷特巴特（法国）、莎拉·西维特（德国）
Artists：Johanna Braitbart（France）、Sarah Siewert（Germany）
作品名称：《曾经的23条牛仔裤》&《身披优雅的未来》
Title of work：Once upon 23 pairs of Jeans&The future dressed in grace
作品材质：23条使用过的牛仔裤&面纱、鹅毛、雉毛、玻璃珠、羊毛
Material(s)：Used 23 JeansVeil, Feathers of goose, Pheasant, Glass beads, Wool
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
本件作品从废弃、破旧的回收牛仔裤背后入手，揭示了织物中蕴含的隐秘叙事——将可能被视为废物的衣物，转变为供人反思的画布。通过收集 23条二手牛仔裤，展现了每条裤子所承载的丰富经历与个人历史。牛仔裤远不止是衣物；它们体现了一种不断演变的传统，跨越世代、风格与社会阶层。从耐磨的工装裤到华丽的晚装，牛仔布不断重塑自我——或装饰、或点缀、或手绘，甚至经化学处理，拥抱从宽松到紧身、从复古到未来主义的每一种潮流。作品上的缝制文字使其不仅成为可穿戴的艺术，更成为一种行动号召，促使穿着者与观者思考物品背后的故事、资源与劳动，从而更有意识地穿着，并延长衣物的使用寿命。作品赋予牛仔裤全新的意义，令每个人反思自身的选择，以及时尚、可持续性的更广泛循环。
一款头饰轻盈如呼吸——面纱飘曳，羽毛勾勒纤弧，植物饰件低语其间。此作打造的不只是饰品，更是工艺与幻想交融的愿景，每处细节皆含深意。植根于往昔技艺，彼时巧手与永恒手法铸就美，却不止步于此，更携传统前行，织就属于未来的形态。往昔的丰饶从未消逝，恰是未来生长的根基。优雅非某个时代，而是连续体——一种不断演进却忠于自我的语言。女性气质非固定形象，而是鲜活力量：优雅、强大、勇于蜕变。这件作品彰显作者的时尚观：致敬过往、欢庆当下、畅想未来。这雕塑般的作品中，每道褶皱、每根羽毛、每线条，都兼具记忆与承诺——今日之优雅，明日之遗产。
By starting with the story behind discarded, worn, recyclable jeans, I highlight the hidden stories embedded in the fabric-transforming what might be seen as waste into a canvas for reflection.By collecting 23 pairs of secondhand jeans, I demonstrate the diversity of lived experiences and personal histories embedded in each piece. My design respects these layers, making each stitch a gesture of honoring their past lives.Jeans are more than just clothing; they embody a shifting tradition, transcending generations, styles, and social classes. From hard-wearing work trousers to glamorous evening wear, denim constantly reinvents itself-adorned, embellished, painted, or even chemically altered, embracing every trend from baggy to skinny, vintage to futuristic. The sewn statements on my art piece transform it into both a wearable artwork and a call to action, urging wearers and viewers alike to consider the stories, resources, and labor behind every item, and to wear clothing more consciously and for longer periods. By blending storytelling with activism, my work is not only revives discarded jeans but also gives them new meaning, inviting everyone to reflect on their own choices and the broader cycles of fashion, sustainability, and value.
A headpiece like a breath of air - veils floating, feathers tracing delicate arcs, botanical accents whispering in between. Johanna Braitbart shapes more than an ornament; she sculpts a vision where craftsmanship and fantasy meet, each detail alive with intention.This creation is rooted in the savoir-faire of the past, where patient hands and timeless gestures shaped beauty. Yet it does not remain there. It carries those traditions forward, weaving them into forms that belong to tomorrow. The past, in all its richness, is never lost; it is the very foundation from which the future grows.In Interviewing the Future, elegance is not an era but a continuum - a language that evolves yet remains true to itself. Femininity is not a fixed image but a living force: graceful, strong, and unafraid to transform.Through this piece, my vision of fashion speaks clearly: to honor what came before, to celebrate what is now, and to imagine what is yet to come. For in every fold, every feather, every line of this sculptural work, there is both memory and promise -today's grace, tomorrow's legacy
艺术家：王文
Artist：Wang Wen
作品名称：《墨影织韵》
Title of work：The Rhythm of Intangible Ink
作品材质：真丝绡、欧根纱、皮革
Material(s)：Silk gauze, organza, leather
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
《墨影织韵》作品以中国水墨画写意的晕染铺陈，营造流云舒卷，悠远空灵的东方意境。面料真丝绡、欧根纱赋予服装轻盈飘逸之感，宛如东方仕女的灵动优雅。结合皮革多层次激光切割工艺，形成虚实丰富的肌理美感。交织融合，让传统水墨在现代时尚语境中焕发出新的生机，织构时尚未来。
The work "The Rhythm of Intangible Ink" uses the freehand brushwork of Chinese ink wash painting to create an Oriental artistic conception of flowing clouds and a distant, ethereal atmosphere. The fabric, silk gauze and organza, endows the dress with a light and flowing feel, just like the lively elegance of an Eastern lady. Combining the multi-level laser cutting process of leather, a rich texture beauty with both real and virtual elements is formed. Interweaving and blending, traditional ink wash painting is rejuvenated in the context of modern fashion, weaving the future of fashion.
艺术家：张刚
Artist：Zhang Gang
作品名称：《由一个“圆”引发的故事》
Title of work：A Story Sparked by a "Circle"
作品材质：棉布
Material(s)：Cotton cloth
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
“圆”，一个看似简单、封闭的几何图形，是本作品一切思考与创造的起点。作品每个大的圆形花朵由8个（16片）小圆组合而成，将多个大圆形花朵组合，形成“圆中见方”的视觉效果，巧妙阐释天圆地方的东方哲学，更是生命轮回、时间循环的永恒隐喻，它是一次关于“起点与终点”、“完整与破碎”、“无限与有限”的哲思之旅，它讲述的，是形态背后的可能性，是简单符号所激发的、关于存在与联结的深邃故事。
"The 'circle', a seemingly simple and closed geometric shape, is the starting point of all thoughts and creations in this work. Each large circular flower in the work is composed of 8 (16 pieces) small circles. When multiple large circular flowers are combined, they form a visual effect of 'seeing squares within circles', which ingeniously interprets the Oriental philosophy of 'the heaven is round and the earth is square' and serves as an eternal metaphor for the cycle of life and time. This is a philosophical journey about 'the beginning and the end', 'wholeness and fragmentation', 'infinity and finiteness'. What it tells is the possibility behind forms and the profound story of existence and connection inspired by simple symbols."
艺术家：赵佳蓉
Artist：Zhao Jiarong
作品名称：《幻律织形》
Title of work：MOLE*AWR23AW
作品材质：环保再生尼龙、90%鹅绒、100%聚酯纤维等
Material(s)：Recycled Nylon (Econyl®)、*90% Goose Down (FP 650+)*、100% Polyester (PES)
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
与意大利Santoni合作开发28针双面针织技术连体衣，以环保再生尼龙纱线模拟水洗牛仔的纹理与做旧质感，实现丹宁视觉的数字化重构。通过精准定位图案延续品牌MOLE'NERATION的标志性边缘渐变语言，将剪裁的立体感融入针织结构及工艺，打造兼具可持续性与工艺创新的全新面料表达,该系列受邀与品牌AWR共同展示于上海时装周.
Developed in collaboration with Santoni (Italian pioneer of knitting machinery), the 28-gauge double-knit jumpsuit employs recycled nylon yarn to replicate the texture and weathered patina of vintage denim, realizing a digital deconstruction of denim aesthetics. Through computationally aligned patterns, the design extends MOLE'NERATION's signature gradient-edge lexicon, while translating sculptural tailoring principles into knit structures — culminating in a sustainability-driven innovation in advanced textile design. This collection was co-presented with brand AWR at Shanghai Fashion Week.
艺术家：周朝辉
Artist：Zhou Zhaohui
作品名称：《云霓锦瑟》
Title of work：Cloud Rainbow Brocade
作品材质：金丝绒、土家织锦、网纱
Material(s)：Gold velvet、Tujia brocade、mesh
作品阐释：
Concept statement：
本设计以“东方云肩的当代诗意” 为核心主题，深度融合打籽绣非遗技艺、土家织锦传统图腾与云肩礼制文化，通过传统服饰元素的创新重构，诠释非遗活态再生理念，向世界传递中国传统服饰蕴含的文化自信与东方美学。
礼服创作以“云肩为天、织锦为地、湘绣为人” 为核心理念，巧妙构筑跨越时空的 “三重宇宙” 意象 —— 让湘西山水孕育的土家文化之魂，与巴黎时尚语境下的浪漫晨雾，在针线交织的经纬间实现跨文化共鸣。造型设计上，肩臂处缀有可拆卸式云肩，行走时流苏轻摇，兼具灵动美感与实用价值；衣身选用质感温润的蓝色金丝绒面料，奠定典雅大气基调。装饰细节紧扣传统美学：前身以土家织锦经典 “龙凤呈祥” 纹样为核心，传递吉祥寓意；后背采用土家锦 “凤穿牡丹” 图案，与前身纹样呼应，重构传统 “四合如意” 所蕴含的天地和谐哲学。
作品工艺凝聚非遗大师匠心：其中湘绣部分由湖南湘绣工艺美术大师袁平手工绣制，针法细腻灵动；土家织锦元素则由湘西州土家织锦大师叶丽萍亲自织造，精准还原民族织锦的古朴韵味与文化肌理，让非遗技艺在当代礼服设计中焕发新生。
This design takes "The Contemporary Poetic Essence of Oriental Cloud Shoulder" as its core theme, deeply integrating the intangible cultural heritage techniques of seed embroidery, traditional totems of Tujia brocade weaving, and the ritual culture of cloud shoulder. Through innovative reinterpretation of traditional costume elements, it interprets the concept of living regeneration of intangible cultural heritage and conveys to the world the cultural confidence and Eastern aesthetics embodied in China's traditional attire.
The costume design embodies the core concept of "cloud shoulders as sky, brocade as ground, and Xiang embroidery as human form," skillfully constructing a "triple universe" imagery that transcends time and space. This allows the soul of Tujia culture nurtured by Xiangxi's mountains and waters to resonate with Parisian fashion in its romantic morning mist through the interweaving threads of needlework. In terms of styling, detachable cloud shoulder pads adorn the shoulders and arms, their tassels swaying gently while walking, combining graceful aesthetics with practicality. The body is crafted from warm blue gold-silk velvet fabric, establishing an elegant and grand tone. Decorative details adhere to traditional aesthetics: the front features the classic "Dragon and Phoenix Auspiciousness" pattern from Tujia brocade, conveying auspicious symbolism; the back adopts the "Phoenix Piercing Peony" motif from Tujia brocade, echoing the front design and reconstructing the traditional "Four Harmonies and Auspiciousness" philosophy of cosmic harmony.
The craftsmanship embodies the artistic essence of intangible cultural heritage masters: The Xiang embroidery section is hand-embroidered by Yuan Ping, a Hunan Xiang Embroidery Master, showcasing delicate and dynamic stitching techniques. Meanwhile, the Tujia brocade elements are meticulously woven by Ye Liping, a master from Xiangxi Prefecture, accurately recreating the rustic charm and cultural texture of traditional ethnic textiles. This innovative approach breathes new life into these time-honored crafts through contemporary wedding dress design.
艺术家：曾奕嫔 Artist：Zeng Yipin 作品名称：《界》 Title of work：Limen 作品材质：真丝重缎、真丝欧根缎 Material(s)：Silk satin panne, Silk eugan satin 作品阐释： Concept statement： 以无垠之白为基调，融合东方的庄重沉静与西方的缥缈轻盈。层叠与流动的线条，在静与动、虚与实之间构筑平衡。它立于传统与未来的交汇点，试图挣脱界限桎梏，成为一座跨越时序的“未来遗迹”。它追溯本源，更向未来开放——本身即是边界，也是触及未知的通道。立于此刻，我们面向何方? Grounded in a boundless white, it synthesizes Eastern solemnity and Western weightlessness.The interplay of layered, fluid lines builds adialectic of stillness and motion, void and form.This work exists in the interstice between tradition and the future, attempting to shed all constraints to become a "future relic" spanning temporal fissures. It is a return to source and an opening to generation-an entity that is itself both the boundary and the conduit. Standing at this juncture, what lies in the direction we choose? /参展艺术家/ List of Artists /主办单位/ Chief Organizers 「中国之光」巴黎时尚艺术周组委会 Light From China Fashion Art Week in Paris Committee 时装L’OFFICIEL杂志 Fashion L'OFFICIEL Magazine /支持单位/ Support Units 巴黎时尚协会 Paris Fashion Association 中国纺织工程学会时装艺术专业委员会 China Textile Engineering Society Fashion Art Professional Committee 法国国际模特协会 Association Française du Mannequinat International 时装艺术国际同盟 International Fashion Art Network /媒体合作/ Media Cooperation 识尚CIRCLE国际时尚资讯 Fashion Now Circle Magazine /策展人/ Exhibition Curator 吕越 Lyu Yue (Aluna) /执行策展人/ Executive Curators 罗杰、陈艳妮 Luo Jie, Chen Yanni /展览统筹/ Exhibition Management 「中国之光」巴黎时尚艺术周组委会 Light From China Fashion Art Week in Paris Committee /视觉设计/ Visual Design 程若愚 Cheng Ruoyu /展品统筹/ Exhibit Coordination 周茜 Zhou Qian /宣传策划/ Promotion Planning 高娜、王欣源、蓝星、翟卉仪 Gao Na, Wang Xinyuan, Lan Xing, Zhai Huiyi /影像支持/ Video Support 与木界 Arbor Zone Studio /展览志愿者/ Exhibition Volunteer 贺景琳、兰月昕、王方琳、赖林菀、陈漫澜、王兆涵 He Jinglin, Lan Yuexin, Wang Fanglin, Lai Linwan, Chen Manlan, Wang Zhaohan 官方网址： https://ifan-info.arthn.com（中文） https://e-ifan-info.arthn.com（English）
